Wednesday, September 22, 2010

East Meets East


Hermès just opened the first outpost of Shang-Xia, a new luxury lifestyle brand based in PRC for PRC consumers. The brand reflects Hermès' legacy of artfulness and fine craftsmanship. Products like cashmere sweaters and fine porcelain showcase Chinese craft traditions with a contemporary minimalist twist. The small store opened in Shanghai at the Hong Kong Plaza Mall, additional stores are planned for Paris and Beijing in due course.

The establishment of Shang-Xia is evidence Hermès has found its footing in China and has the confidence to experiment. It may also confirm that the PRC consumer is growing more sophisticated. David Tang's Shanghai Tang has an early lead as the original homegrown luxury brand. PRC Consumers are experimenting beyond European and American brands – and are prepared to embrace a distinctly Chinese take on luxury lifestyle.

Shang Xia is the second Asian brand to be launched by a western company. Last month Levi Strauss & Co established Denizen, a denim brand aimed at the PRC mass market. 
Photos: WWD.com

Monday, September 20, 2010

Less is More


Last week in New York, I stopped by to check out the newly restored Rhinelander, which just reopened as the Ralph Lauren menswear store on Madison and 72nd. Even though it's still hidden behind scaffolding and construction scrim, the store opened for business at the start of Fashion Week. The newly constructed women's & home flagship is set to open across the street in a few weeks.

The space recalls a posh men's club... all polished mahogany, deep leather seating and richly colored hues. It goes without saying that the store is beautifully designed and the service was excellent. However, the RL merchandising team could use a lesson in restraint – in this case, less would be more. As I navigated Purple Label, I nearly knocked over a bespoke mannequin and his friend. I also had trouble finding the timepieces, which I was astounded to learn flank the front door – in plain view, but overshadowed by other gorgeousness. The sky-lit fourth floor RLX boutique was a much needed respite from the navigating dark rooms alongside Russian oligarchs.