Monday, March 22, 2010

A Ma Gau


Last weekend we visited Macau, China's answer to Las Vegas. The hotels surpassed even the grand scale of Vegas; the Venetian Macau is the fourth largest building, measured by area, on Earth…. there is a second Wynn under construction. We stayed at the month-old Hard Rock Hotel, located in the City of Dreams – a massive complex that includes four hotels connected by a gigantic luxury mall.

What the city has in scale and vision, it lacks in polish. We had problems checking in, getting seated for dinnerProblems with service operations – hospitality is but one example – exist throughout China – often the people providing a service experience have no personal experience with it. The idea of fine dining in restaurants, staying overnight in hotels or visiting spas is totally unfamiliar to the people staffing these establishments.

Taylor and I completely enjoyed exploring the old colonial center of Macau, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We also got lost in an old neighborhood full of men playing checkers, women playing mahjong and markets selling everything from dried fish and produce to herbs and teas. I stopped in one shop filled with Qing Dynasty scrolls and spoke with the shopkeeper. The commercial success of the colonial alleys has resulted in sharply higher rents in surrounding areas. After admiring his collection of antique portraits and learning he'll be evicted from his shop soon, I made a purchase.

Sunday was spent lollygagging by the pool and eating at Fernando's on the beach, which served wonderful Portugese/Macau fare. We had a delicious meal of fish, prawns, pork and morning glories; their fried rice might be the best I've ever had.

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